Gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa)

Publié mardi 15 janvier 2013 Commenter 107
Gloxinia

Sommaire

Gloxinia : en bref

Nom scientifique
Sinningia speciosa
Provenance / Origine
Amérique du Sud
Période de semi
Printemps
Période de floraison
Eté
Couleur de floraison
Rouge
Température
15 à 24°C
Exposition à la lumière
Lumière vive mais pas de soleil cru. Tubercules à l'obscurité l'hiver.
Reproduction
Division du tubercule. Semis. Bouture.
Hauteur
15 à 30 cm
Acidité du sol
Plutôt acide
Entretien
Arrosage limité. Atmosphère assez chargée en eau. Engrais l'été.
Type biologique
Vivace
Maladies
Pourriture du tubercules et des racines si arrosage trop important
Type de feuillage
Caduc
Insectes et animaux ravageurs
Thrips

Classification de la plante

Règne
Plantae
Sous-règne
Tracheobionta
Division
Magnoliophyta
Classe
Magnoliopsida
Sous-classe
Asteridae
Ordre
Scrophulariales
Famille
Gesneraniaceae

Les fleurs, des pièges ravissants

 

Les grosses clochettes du Gloxinia sont, dans leur habitat naturel, de véritables appâts pour les insectes ou oiseaux mouches pollinisateurs. Les couleurs chatoyantes de la corolle les attirent, et le nectar contenu au fond est une substance alléchante pour eux. Ainsi, ils s'introduisent jusqu'au fond du tube floral, effleurant au passage les précieuses étamines couvertes de pollen et le pistil. Allez donc regarder de plus près cette miniature d'ingéniosité! L'horticulture a développé bien plus de coloris que ceux présents à l'état naturel.

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L'hygrométrie de la pièce où se trouve le Gloxinia doit être assez élevée. Par contre, attendez que la terre du pot soit sèche avant d'arroser de nouveau, et à ce moment-là, veillez de ne pas mettre d'eau sur les feuilles. Cela les ferait pourrir. De plus, éviter d'utiliser de l'eau calcaire, et égouttez bien le pot après arrosage pour éviter tout risque inutile de pourriture du tubercules et des racines.

La fréquence conseillée pour l'arrosage est tous les trois jours en période de floraison, une fois par semaine après la défloraison. Pour l'engrais, dispensez-le en été toutes les deux semaines. Un engrais pour orchidées ou pour rhododendrons convient bien.

 

Conservation des tubercules

Une fois les feuilles de la plantes mortes, cessez tout arrosage, laissez sécher la motte. Vous pourrez ensuite déterrer les tubercules, raccourcir leurs racines aux deux tiers, les nettoyer un peu en les brossant avec délicatesse. Il faut leur faire passer l'hiver au sec, entre 10 et 15°C.

En avril viendra le temps de la plantation, dans un substrat renouvelé. Faites affleurer le rhizome juste sous la surface, cela limitera les risques de pourriture. Vous pouvez par la même occasion diviser les rhizomes en les coupant avec une lame bien affutée, afin que la plaie soit nette. Les fragments coupés doivent faire quelques centimètres.

 

Autres méthodes de multiplication

 

Vous pouvez tenter les boutures de feuilles tout l'été, en les détachant et en replantant leur pétiole dans un terreau sableux. Le semis est à effectuer au printemps, en sol sableux également et à peine humide.

 

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